Window Regulator repair (Driver's side)
A photo how to repair a window lift that doesn't work anymore.
If the other 3 windows don't work and the switches aren't illuminated
in the drivers side arm rest, look for a broken wire in the door jamb loom.
(The wire circled is that completing the ground to the sunroof and ALL windows)
To start we need to gather the tools needed.
Phillips head screw driver #2 short stubby and normal one.
4mm Hex socket or "screw" driver BEST.
ARM REST:
We start by removing the door panel. Arm rest first.
The armrest holds most of the door on and has hidden hex screws.
Arm rest top location below switches.
So you undo three of them, one below switches two in arm rest bottom.
"Please note on the window regulator repair page that the allen to get the
armrest off is a 4mm vs ( 5mm or 6mm )
Thanks again for the great page.
Chuck."
DOOR PANEL:
The door panel has TWO hidden screws in the corners.
One in the front corner, one by the door jamb back.
Door Lever screw Location:
Remove the hidden Phillips screw behind lever.
Disconnect the cable from the lever assembly.
One More screw.........
In the center of the connector is the oval
where the blade goes to pull in the tabs
Alternative method for some connectors
Released!
Panel edges and Door Lock:
This lock pull is on a threaded rod with a groove in it.
Turning the pull knob 90 degrees or more will line the groove up for easy knob removal.
When all the outer clips are free I pushed straight upwards to remove the panel
The Bose system is in the 200 20V sedan only.
All these pieces hold the door together
Inside the door: Door Frame removal.
Here's the new regulator assembly to compare where I need to undo things.
The black circles show the bolt locations in the door and on the regulator assembly
Regulator Pin Window attachment.
Now the glass is held onto the regulator by this pin
and a "C" clip which faces INTO the outer door skin.
The black plastic is the window bracket that holds up the glass.
Fun, fun, fun ! MAJOR PITA.
The above photo shows it off. YOU HAVE TO get something long flat,
between the outer door skin and the glass to pop off the "C" clip.
Above are the assorted 10mm nuts, parts and file (the long flat metal thingy
resting on the door sill in the above photo) I used to remove snap ring hold from
window to regulator lift assembly.
INSIDE THE DOOR:
Now the regulator is loose inside the door, but it won't just pull out either.....
To the right is the motor assembly which we have to free from the wires and clips.
Here its just laying out the door frame but no yet out.
Below is INSIDE the door looking forward.
Most of the wires go to the arm rest switches.
You need to clip them from the door frame holders.
Note the foam encasement of the connector:
Most of this is coiled up behind the switches "box" in the door pull area.
Here, I unclip the wire bundle strapped to the door frame.
I think this is the motor connector free and unplugged.
Super LONG slack connector for regulator motor
Able to position regulator sideways to attempt to remove.
Everything out of the door.
New regulator IN.
Below is the angle of tilt I needed to get the new one inside the door frame.
Now, I just started putting everything back like I disassembled.
I took this photo to remind you of the window "Seal" orientation.
I was quick to reattach everything, just make sure the slack items are secured
to the door frame so the window doesn't hit them.
Reinstalled door insulation, regulator lithium greased.
I reused most everything, and spaced out the (good) plastic inserts if any broke.
Remember these? Here's where they go:
Door Pin alignment, left pin: right plastic snap fit
Here, I cleaned the door panel before I put it back on and WOW
LIKE NEW!
The reason It didn't work?
Hmmmmm. Maybe regulator was repairable. Search archives at Audifans.com
Bernie and some Audifans.com listers have had success in reanchoring
the cable drive into the motor.
Since I couldn't tell this was the case I ordered the whole assembly part.
Since I had the switches out, I tested them for continuity.
2.(5) is really blinking .28 which means Infinity or open circuit.
I figured out that the door hinge area has frayed
wires so the window works when the door is closed.
Above the main power to the sunroof, windows is broken.
Notice the previous tape splicing on the smaller wires above?
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